#SuzyMFW: Vionnet and Gabriele Colangelo - A Sense Of Place

Vionnet: Bird Song

Leonardo Da Vinci made his wine in the garden of the historic building where twitter was the message: bird song that is, not social media.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

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Waiting for the Vionnet show in these surroundings seemed like a privilege. And there was a magical, other-world feeling about many of the clothes - especially when bird patterns were worked into chiffon or on a slither of satin.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

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But while creating, on one hand, these calm and beautiful pieces, Goga Ashkenazi, offered other disruptive concepts, especially blue jeans torn open and flaring out from knee to ankle.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

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The owner and designer of the brand still seems uncertain how to place Vionnet in the fashion world of today. It might be wiser to concentrate entirely on late day and evening clothes, while keeping the flying birds.

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Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

Vionnet Autumn/Winter 2017.

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Gabriele Colangelo: A Stitch In Time

"To promote and extend culture, especially in the study of foreign languages and civilisations" was the announced moto of the historic Milanese Philological Circle, where Gabriele Colangelo staged his show.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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There is something bookish and erudite about the designer whose purposely undone or unfinished work, interspersed with geometric squares, has a certain poetry.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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Colangelo works with threads, using basting stitches as a decoration and softening of strict lines. Typically, a dress might be made of straight, even severe, straps which run down to the hem, where the pieces are released.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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It might sound complex, but the fuzz of threads on a plain outfit had an intriguing depth and marks the designer as genuinely original.

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