#SuzyMFW: Salvatore Ferragamo - Between Serenity And Severity

It's all change at Ferragamo - and this is not the only house to reconsider the position of fashion in relation to accessories. Tod's drew back from clothes for the Autumn/Winter 2017 season and replaced a named designer with a studio team.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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Ferragamo's family business was shoes and fine leather goods that were on offer before the brand began producing collections showing clothing. Since then, there has been a low-key clothing offer, one that has never remotely been in tune with the forceful position Gucci and Prada, both built on accessories, have taken on the runway.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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It seems that Ferragamo likes it that way, because after a shuffle of designers, the result at the Milan show was more of the same.

New Design Director Fulvio Rigoni sent out his first collection in which the elongated shapes seemed to draw the eyes down towards the feet. There, footwear designer Paul Andrew is another new page in the story.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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Rigoni's collection was pitched somewhere between severity and serenity. The silhouette was slim, with a pallid print of animal skin, giving the effect of seeing the pattern inside out. That print might be tiger or leopard - or occasionally both together.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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It is hard to tell from a single outing what direction has been set. A puffer gilet on the upper part of the body was in contrast to the slim silhouette, just as slices of blue and shocking pink set-off the neutral shades.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2017.

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But all these ideas need to be revved up, so that the new Ferragamo can move forward.

Vogue

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