While cultural diversity is being embraced more in fashion, varied body types, learns Danielle Meder, are another story
Illustration by Danielle Meder.
What does diversity mean in fashion? This complex issue is too fundamental to trivialize as a trend. Attempts to address it were especially noticeable in the politicized atmosphere of the Fall 2017 collections presented in New York this February. While significant gains have been made in racial and transgender diversity, with estimates of representation around 30 per cent, size diversity lags considerably behind.
This is because body diversity is not simply a casting issue, it’s a design challenge. If designers are only considering diversity in terms of the fashion show, it’s too late. Dressing plus-sized models in wrap dresses or caftans merely broadcasts that a designer considers flattering their models’ figures an afterthought. Needless to say, that’s not a good look.
Traditionally in ready-to-wear, the designer would take a garment and make it available in a variety of sizes – from XS to XL – so in theory the same style could be available to everyone. This is certainly equal treatment, however it is not fair treatment since what flatters the tall and thin does not flatter the short and round. In order to enhance a variety of figures, designers must treat differences, well, differently.
One designer who approaches diversity as a practice and not just a headline-making statement is Becca McCharen of Chromat. She has a background in architecture, where designers are trained to respond to the building site on a case- by-case basis. As a queer designer she considers people individually and not by assumed roles. Chromat’s intelligent designs enhance a variety of figures, whether worn by tall trans women, petite Asian femmes or hyper-feminine goddesses like Beyoncé and Nicki Minaj. Compared to the rigid monotony of most runway shows, the vibe at a Chromat presentation is buoyant. Each unique model is dressed to look incredibly hot; their personalities radiate. They express how embracing diversity throughout the design process makes fashion exciting and fun – for everyone.
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