When it comes to autumn/winter 2017 you can forget lip liner – at London Fashion Week lipstick was deliberately stained, smudged and diffused in its application, and to glorious effect. Val Garland kickstarted the trend in the most literal sense at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, applying layer upon layer of MAC lipstick only to smudge it messily around models’ mouths for a “just-snogged” effect.
“It's about kissing and snogging. This girl goes clubbing, she’s confident and she loves kissing,” Garland told Vogue’s Flora Macdonald Johnston backstage. “I’m using MAC’s Lip Mix and smudging out the line, using a larger brush and buffing it out, and then applying gloss within the lip line but not outside it.”
At Topshop Unique, Lynsey Alexander was inspired by Nineties party girls after a long night of raving, creating “blurred and stained’ lips using Topshop Beauty’s upcoming Lip Kit in Crazy Beautiful. The look was paired with dewy skin and clumpy lashes for the ultimate take on post-party make-up. “The lip is meant to look worn-in and blurred, like they’ve been wearing it all night,” she told us backstage.
Then at Temperley London, Garland created a stained rose lip by buffing a berry shade into the lips with a brush for a pretty complement to the brand’s elegant eveningwear. And at Roland Mouret, she continued the “morning after” make-up vibe with several of the models sporting a softly smudged lip in the prettiest of pinks. It’s lipstick, but without the rules – and so much easier to apply in the back of a taxi.