#SuzyLFW: Roland Mouret celebrates 20th birthday in London

It takes some courage – or rather, some certainty – to celebrate your first 20 years in fashion to a backing track of The Look of Love, sung by 16 different performing artists from Shirley Bassey, through Liza Minelli to Nina Simone. But to Roland Mouret, this choice of ‘same difference’ was symbolic of his career that started effectively when he was 36 and decided not to take over his father's butcher shop in France, but instead to pursue a life in fashion.

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

ADVERTISEMENT

“The music is the answer to the invitation because of all we’ve been through the last six months, since the world started to change,” said the designer. “Women have used words and their presence to express what they want and what they don’t want to lose – their freedom,” he said referring to the words on the invitation: Give her what she's not afraid to ask for.

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

Mouret went on to say that the message was answered by the non-stop loop of The Look of Love on the soundtrack – ending with Leonard Cohen's I'm Your Man. But he might have been expressing a feeling about clothes – and love – that many women crave: consistency.

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

Roland Mouret

A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on

A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on Feb 19, 2017 at 5:00am PST

ADVERTISEMENT

With this designer, it is all about the soft cut, starting with gilded mesh, crossing the bodice on the bias or a draped jacket in neoprene. His essential idea of draping included a soft top and bias-cut skirt in the designer’s two favourite shades: turquoise and purple. This effect of wrap and drape meant that there was a fluidity about the clothes that was both easy and subtle. The designer also played with slithering satin and bias-cut crepe – perhaps with small studs; while shoes were ribbons wrapped round the ankles.

ADVERTISEMENT

Mouret's history will be forever entwined with his Galaxy dress: first seen in 2005 and an instant classic – to the extent that it is tough for him to find another identity. Yet in this show, mesh knit tops slithering off one shoulder created a different kind of sensuality.

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

“I think about the woman who wore the Galaxy,” said Roland, “She knows her body and knows herself and what she’s facing and using to wake up the icon inside herself. My job was simple: what was more important than the dress is how the woman lived her life in that dress. And I like when one woman wakes up the icon inside herself for one night or one moment.”

ADVERTISEMENT
Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Roland Mouret Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

Since modern clients were meeting up with Roland immediately after the show to view and order the new collection, the Galaxy and its descendants seem to be much more than a one night stand. And back on English turf after a long period of showing in Paris, Roland said he was delighted to be back, looking lovingly on London, the city where his career as a designer began.

Vogue

Get the latest news delivered to your inbox

Follow us on social media networks