#SuzyPFW: Haider Ackermann – Draining Off The Colour

Wild Is The Wind by Nina Simone filled the space devoted to the Haider Ackermann show, where the designer's slow pace, in his past shows, had the effect of inducing a hypnotic trance in thrall to colour.

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

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Out came a black coat, a black suit, a white top and furry white trousers – graceful bodies walking one at a time.

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

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Then suddenly, a gilded line – like the one that was traced on the invitation – appeared crossing the black like a tiny, shining rivulet. As the pace quickened, the placement of golden rills became denser until they criss-crossed a jacket with sketchy regularity.

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

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But even with insertions of white, as puffy sleeves and swaddled legs, to face off against all the darkness, there was still no soft or hard colour. Then finally – finally! – a bright blue dress came out to break the absence of colour.

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Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

Lovely as the show was in that way of Haider's – cutting trousers close to the body and jackets tight and tidy, I had to go backstage after the roar of applause and ask a simple question: when you are one of the finest colourists in fashion today – why reduce yourself to just four shades?

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2017

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“I wanted to do something unexpected – to challenge myself,” said the designer. “Colour is always attractive, but I just wanted the show to be very sober, very calm. There’s enough happening outside so I just wanted to have something very serene.”

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So, Haider gave himself the chance – or indeed, the challenge – of making a statement restrained to black and white. He did it beautifully – but the heart of his show missed a beat.

Vogue

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